1
Brandenburg Gate
It's actually on Pariser Platz, at least from the other side. If the city of Berlin were an apartment, this place would be the so-called parlor. In other words, the room where guests are happy to take them to show the most beautiful sides of the city. But why so much, the surrounding buildings were destroyed by war and demolition in the later decades, all that was left was the Brandenburg Gate. It was about as isolated as the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. But it wasn't planned that way. There was no way to get to the gate from either side, a very thick wall stood from the west, and the East Berliners were separated by a fence from the east. The remaining part of the Hotel Adlon was finally blown up. After the fall of the Wall, it was decided to rebuild everything here, but modernized in style, only in cubature as before. Now the Liebermannhaus, the Academy of the Arts, the French and American embassies are gathered here again.
Duration: 5 minutes
2
Potsdamer Platz
Actually, the right place, which was laid out as an octagon by the soldier king in the 18th century (in contrast to the Karree, the Pariser Platz and the Rondell, today's Mehringplatz), the Leipziger Platz, is located at the end of the street of the same name before the city gate, that led to Potsdam and was therefore also called that. The now more well-known square, the Potsdamer, was already outside and was and is again largely an intersection with lots of traffic. While 100,000 vehicles drove by here every day in the 1920s, the day and night life raged here with amusement restaurants and more. Today the well-known buildings of Mercedes (then Daimler-Chrysler) and the Sony Center are located here, at the beginning of the striking glass tower for the management of Deutsche Bahn. Nearby important hotels (like the Ritz Carlton) and new amusements. That's how it was intended, but it doesn't really want to unfold from the retort, even the Spielbank Berlin wants to leave, the musical is already.
3
Reichstag Building
Magnificent Wilhelminian building, even if criticized by it as a chat room or monkey house. Therefore also built outside and away from the city. Historically valuable, after all, the Red Army soldiers placed their flag on the building as a symbol of victory. Even if the famous photo of it is only reproduced. Then for decades it was largely ignored in the so-called free West Berlin - only 5 m away from the Wall, it was not allowed to be used for official Bundestag sessions. If so, to elect the Federal President, for example, a reprimand from East Berlin followed immediately. Completely gutted in the nineties and completely redesigned for the reunified Bundestag with now over 700 members. Not to forget the iconographic wrapping action by the artist Christo. The Reichstag dome, put on new glass after the architect had only planned a kind of gas station roof at this point, it now represents the new Berlin.
4
Paul-Lobe-Haus
This building is the so-called engine of parliament; all parliamentary work takes place here. In Parliament, only the closing speeches are held; the actual discussion and voting takes place in the committees. There is plenty of opportunity for this in every bulge in the over 200 m long building on three floors. And as a glass parliament you can even see it from the outside. Only the EU and secret committees sit in the largest rotunda facing the Spree above the two restaurants - and cannot be seen from outside.
5
Bundeskanzleramt der Bundesregierung
Colossal building, with a height of 36 m, ten floors and a total of 500 office rooms for over 300 employees, not exactly small. The White House would fit eight times. The only bigger ones are palaces for presidents. The Chancellor has her office in the top left corner. In the rotunda above there is an official apartment for her, which she does not use. As you know, she lives across from Museum Island. The official apartment is also rather impractical, with bathroom and bedroom across the street with about 200 m² of usable space.
6
Largest crossing station in Europe, that's what the railway itself says and tells of 300,000 passengers who change trains here every day. Well that's hard to check. But in fact the train station is already huge in its dimensions, with 8 underground tracks and just as many above ground. In between huge halls, a total of 5 levels, and many, many shops. And so that they got enough visitors, the former most important train station in West Berlin, namely the Bahnhof Zoo, was downgraded to a regional train station without a stop for the ICE. To the horror of the Charlottenburg etc, who now had another journey - felt like nowhere. Because the new central station (Berlin never had one, only terminal stations in all directions) was only on the Stadtbahn (which was once built to connect most of Berlin's train stations). The underground only got a stub up to the Brandenburg Gate (it is being extended), and underground digging is still going on at the S-Bahn.
7
Here we pass the east-west border again. In the port, which was already a restricted area at that time, the first deaths occurred after the wall was built. Günter Litfin was shot backwards while trying to swim through the harbor. His brother mourned him until a few years ago - in one of the last remaining watchtowers at the Invalidenfriedhof.
8
A modern building, with a striking large giant window in the middle. Behind this, the government is surveyed once or twice a week by accredited journalists from the capital. They then sit in front of a blue wall, which is also easily reflected here in the facade.
9
Today important ministries - for economy and traffic - are lined up here in significant buildings with an eventful history. The Palais am Invalidenpark - formerly for war casualties who were admitted here - was also used for an execution court in GDR times, in which death sentences were passed. For a long time it was also a military hospital. On the way to the Ministry of Transport - a Bavarian minister has always resided there for years - we see a piece of sunken wall on the left. This is art - because it wasn't there at all, but behind us at the level of the bridge. On the right hand side we can already see many of the old clinic buildings of the Charité, the largest university hospital in Europe. In the foreground is the medical-historical museum, nearby is an "anatomical theater" from the Baroque era, in which animals were dissected as object lessons even before medical students.
10
Friedrichstrasse
One of the most famous and longest streets through the city of Berlin: Friedrichstrasse. From here it runs in a straight line south to Kreuzberg, where it ends at today's Mehringplatz - and thus at Hallescher Tor. It has quite different sections, here is the somewhat dingy northern end, which is currently being spruced up. The Tacheles, which actually stands on Oranienburger Straße, extends over here, as it was originally a shopping gallery before department stores became fashionable. Today it's the other way around. A small new district is being created here on an area that could hold some villages.
11
Berlin Friedrichstrasse Station
This station was the only one from which there was an onward journey from East to West Berlin during the time of the Wall, for example also for the Paris-Moscow Express at the time. Or also for the departure of East Berliners, but then without a return ticket. Which is why this station was also used for adventurous escape attempts, which, however, were not always successful. Otherwise, the whole station was criss-crossed by barriers and customs checkpoints, with Stasi observation corridors in the middle - if you are interested in this and more, you will find the original reconstructed next door in the so-called Palace of Tears. This was so called because the East Berliners had to say goodbye to their relatives there, and often for seemingly forever.
12
Unter Den Linden
This magnificent boulevard was the first of its kind in Berlin. Actually designed as a tranquil bridle path, it led from the Berlin Palace to the west, through the Brandenburg Gate into the hunting grounds, today's zoo. These were also reserved for the elector personally and exclusively. When the city expanded to the west - the nucleus was the island in the Spree and the eastern side, where the Nikolaiviertel is today - the Jagdweg was expanded into a considerable boulevard. When it came to the question of how to plant it, there was no agreement between nut trees and linden trees. As you can see today, the linden trees prevailed, otherwise today the street was called Unter den Nüssen ... Originally lined with aristocratic palaces, today there are important and prominent buildings from the State Library to the Humboldt University and the State Opera. Only the remaining cafes on the median are cozy.
13
Russische Botschaft
After the war, the Soviet Union had the largest foreign representation in Europe built here. Its size was supposed to document who was in charge here in the center of Berlin, at that time the American, British and French embassies on Pariser Platz were all in ruins. Contrary to the von den Linden statutes, according to which all buildings should be aligned flush with the street, this type of palace allowed itself an inner courtyard. It was supposed to please Stalin in everything - but unfortunately it is not known whether he ever set foot in it, let alone stayed the night there. At least nothing would have been missing, even for the attached school there is a swimming pool and ballrooms and so on anyway. But Stalin was also a paranoid all his life. To this day used for the successor states of the USSR called GUS.
14
Gendarmenmarkt
German and French cathedral, theater, concert hall, this square is rightly described by many as the most beautiful square in Berlin. Today's concert hall (formerly built as a theater) is nicely framed by the two so-called domes. Namely the German and the French cathedral. However, they are neither bishop's seats nor cathedrals, but simple meetinghouses that Frederick II had embellished with a cathedral-like tower, supposedly according to his own design. The left church, the German cathedral, is no longer used as such, but contains a museum for the parliamentary history of Germany. The one on the right, the French cathedral, is still used by a Reformed congregation that holds services in French on Sundays. Behind it a small Huguenot museum, because it was these refugees who were allowed to build their church here. They only had to live further outside in Moabit. Rebuilt in GDR times.
Duration: 5 minutes
15
Bebelplatz
So-called commode (Royal Court Library), St. Hedwig Cathedral, State Opera, Humboldt University together form the Forum Fridericianum. In today's Hotel Club the Rome, the SPD and KPD were forcibly united. Therefore, the name August Bebel, the founder of the SPD, may also fit. Otherwise, the square used to be called simply Opernplatz, which would also fit better. In the middle of the square, you can easily walk across it, unless there is a crowd of people there, a glass window in the floor that points to an empty library. Here on May 10, 1933, all books unsuitable from the Nazi point of view were burned. With the Humboldt University opposite, the square forms a nice square, as the Berliner says. Because this building was also built as a palace, namely for the younger brother of Friedrich II, Heinrich. A few years after his death, it was used as the nucleus of the royal Friedrich Wilhelm University, today Humboldt University.
16
Neue Wache
For many, the spectacle under the linden trees used to be: the changing of the guard at the new guard, the East Berlin soldiers then walked up and down here at goose-step. That is long gone now, but actually this guard housed the castle guard, at least a small part of it. Formerly a kind of eternal flame inside (actually made of glass, but looks like this when the light falls), today a pièta, an enlarged form of the sculpture by Käthe Kollwitz, who mourned her son who died after only a few weeks in the First World War. Today a place of mourning for all victims of war and tyranny, therefore often statesmanlike wreaths here, especially after the national memorial day in November.
17
Deutsches Historisches Museum
The German Historical Museum is located in the former armory. This traditionally contains the "toys" for men in case of war, ie war implements. Gladly also those captured by the enemy. As a result, a war weapons museum developed from this, and in GDR times also a military history museum. After the fall of the Wall, the decision was made to set up a central museum of German history here, after the groundbreaking had already fallen where the Chancellery is today. Then the story came in between ... The house itself was completely refurbished after the fall of the Wall, and especially the frescoes outside and also in the inner courtyard of the building make many shiver, because they are replicas of death masks of dying warriors. Andreas Schlueter, the builder of the baroque Berlin Palace, drew here as a sculptor.
18
Kronprinzenpalais
This building and the neighboring Kronprinzessinnenpalais are often overlooked - when all the giant objects on Unter den Linden are named, they quickly go under. In fact, their most important purpose was that which is already hidden in the name: Not only were crown princes and princesses born here, but they also grew up here and not infrequently gave birth to them themselves. The two palaces are connected by a corridor. Since the Kronprinzessinnenpalais is so close to the State Opera, it was often used as an opera cafe, and it is currently being used as an exhibition space. The Kronprinzenpalais is still being used by the administration for the reconstruction of the City Palace / Humboldt Forum.
19
For decades there was simply nothing here, a large parking lot, sometimes used for merrymaking and hype. For centuries, the Berlin Palace of the Berlin Electors, later kings, later emperors stood here. Burned out in the war and not extinguished, its silhouette was still unbroken and was partly used after the war, also inside, for example for exhibitions on how Berlin should continue after the war. Nevertheless, the East Berlin gentlemen let it blow up for months, despite all the criticism from home and abroad, because it represented an icon of north German baroque. Photographically documented in detail before the demolition, it now allows for an externally precise reconstruction, and the inner courtyard of the Schlueter is also being reconstructed true to detail. However, the non-European art collections and those of the Humboldt University are to be placed in the otherwise modern concrete building. Opening as Humboldt Forum 2021/2022. A highlight is the roof terrace.
Duration: 20 minutes
20
Stiftung Neue Synagoge Berlin - Centrum Judaicum
Here we see a no-stopping ban on the right, bollards and also policemen with submachine guns in their arms. A sure sign of a Jewish facility in Berlin, because it is not without reason that they are guarded day and night. In the facade you can see Moorish style elements, the whole thing is crowned by a golden dome. Unfortunately, the church itself, which offered space for up to 3000 believers, was destroyed in the war. The front building, a kind of entrance portal, was at least started to be rebuilt in Eastern times. In it today a worth seeing exhibition on Jewish life in Berlin. But be careful, the security measures at the entrance are similar to those in the airport. The synagogue was built to replace an older synagogue nearby, at a time when Prussia offered Jews equal civil rights and people wanted to proudly present their own culture. Even the iron chancellor Bismarck appeared for the inauguration in 1866.
21
Die Hackeschen Hoefe
Today they are like a nucleus of this area, which is particularly popular with tourists. Dilapidated in GDR times and partly used as a warehouse, this courtyard ensemble was the first to be restored after the fall of the Wall and shines in its old Art Nouveau charm. The courtyards were built in 1908 as a kind of showcase courtyard area. Here life and work were supposed to mix in an exemplary manner, small factories, printing houses and workshops offered work, and the atria were large enough and green enough that one could also live on the upper floors. You can admire all of this again today in its original splendor, although the workshops have been replaced by shops with selected, partly self-made goods. KPM (Königliche Porzellan Manufaktur) also exhibits its porcelain here, and in the same courtyard you will also find the products of the famous East Berlin Ampelmännchen.
Duration: 10 minutes
22
Rotes Rathaus
The Red City Hall is not called that according to the governing mayor's party book; this has the same function in Berlin as the Prime Minister in other countries. But of course for the red bricks. In East Berlin times, the East Berlin magistrate also sat here (incidentally with a Lord Mayor, as was common in all of Berlin until 1945) and the West Berlin ruler sat in the Schöneberg Town Hall. Built in the neo-Gothic style, you can also visit it free of charge, at least some interesting rooms, including a room with many plaster casts of well-known statues. Erected in the 1870s, it of course soon became too small and therefore the so-called town house with a towering dome was built diagonally behind it. The oldest town hall in Berlin stood not far from here on the then so-called long bridge, today's Rathausbrücke, in the middle as a connection between two cities, namely Berlin and Cölln.
23
Nikolaiviertel
Recommended tour with Nikolaikirche, Knoblauchhaus and much more. Here you can experience old Berlin, at least the backdrops are right, because that was exactly the intention of the declared reconstruction in the eighties (i.e. still in GDR times), when in truth there were only three houses here, and only the walls of the Nikolaikirche without roof and spire. In addition, 2000 apartments were to be accommodated on this tiny area, a feat of the architect. We approach from the outside at a height that is typical of Berlin and, as it were, zoom into an increasingly older, almost baroque Berlin. With the end of the Nikolaikirche, the oldest in Berlin, today a city museum. In the immediate vicinity is the original Knoblauchhaus, furnished in the most beautiful Biedermeier style and also shows the family life of a cloth maker family free of charge. In addition, typical Berlin restaurants beckon with a view of the Spree, in the middle of St. George as he kills the dragon.
Duration: 10 minutes
24
Alexanderplatz
Everyone talks about Alexanderplatz today - it would be funny to talk about Ochsenplatz, even if that was the original name, probably because they were traded in exactly the same here. Actually already outside the oldest city walls, it was an eastern extension including St. Mary's Church. The origin of the square can actually be found where the forecourt in front of the Galleria Kaufhof is today. During the GDR era, they wanted a socialist redesign here in the sense of a Russian prospectus: With plenty of space for all those marching, preferably including tanks and other types of weapons, surrounded by modern buildings that somehow stood for the modernity of socialism, from the House of Tourism to over the house of electrical engineering to the house of the teacher. And in the middle of it the television tower, to this day the highest in Germany, as evidence of socialist engineering and construction.
25
Karl-Marx-Allee
On both sides you will experience the "confectioner's buildings" of the former Stalin-Allee. Renamed after the dictator's death, the so-called workers' palaces were also controversial: After the target increase and wage cuts, the workers moved to the House of Ministries (now the Ministry of Finance) on Wilhelmstrasse. This culminated in the uprising of June 17, 1953, which was brutally suppressed by the GDR authorities with Soviet tanks. Today the Stalinist buildings have been renovated and are the longest monument mile in Germany.
26
East Side Gallery
The longest remaining part of the Berlin Wall (1600 m), and actually not a real "front wall" at all. Because the brightly smeared wall that the West Berliners could touch should theoretically have been on the other side of the river. But you could save yourself that here, there was a back wall, which here resembles the Berlin Wall to the icing on the cake (3.60, high, the sewer pipe ring at the top so that you cannot jump up). Originally closely guarded and snow-white, it was painted with current motifs by 180 artists from all over the world after the fall of the Wall in 1990: the Trabbi driving through the wall, the Brezhnev-Honecker kiss. Renewed several times in the meantime, but the ravages of time have gnawed at this monster of history.
Duration: 5 minutes
27
Oberbaumbrucke
Almost a landmark of Berlin, and if not, then at least of the Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg double district, this east-west district that is only connected by this bridge. Distinctive through the two medieval towers, it was once the city limits to the east: the so-called Oberbaum (on the upper reaches of the Spree) floated in the water to prevent ships from passing through at night. Because it was also a customs border, as you can easily see from the coat of arms on the towers: on the left the Brandenburg eagle, on the right the Berlin bear. Today a popular connection on the party mile from Schlesisches Tor to Warschauer Strasse with the RAW (Reichsbahn-Improvement Works) area. There is always something going on. Incidentally, the subway runs upstairs on the 1st floor, hidden behind battlements, then there is car and bicycle traffic, and below there is shipping.
28
One cannot imagine what it would look like here if the plans of the road planners from the 1960s had been realized: A wide motorway route would cut through the city, with a motorway intersection on Oranienplatz in front of us. Pretty old buildings, small restaurants and trendy shops that line the street today would have all disappeared. Including the alternative culture that is characteristic of Kreuzberg to this day and that defines its flair. Although it has long been gentrified, it has the highest rental growth rates in Berlin.
29
The development from the 1970s is particularly striking: as the Hanging Gardens of Babylon advertised, this concrete monster quickly degenerated as a housing estate for the new guest workers, mainly from Turkey. Therefore renamed from NKZ - New Kreuzberg Center - in Little Istanbul. Actually, it was supposed to shield the motorway that would have run through Oranienstrasse here and completely destroyed the old buildings. What also called the squatters on the scene around 1980: They moved into the vacated houses, some of which were still full of furniture and carpets. It is not least thanks to them that we still have so many of the old buildings here in Kreuzberg that are in great demand and have been renovated for a long time.
30
The former Deaconess Hospital Bethanien was once built on the green meadow at the gates of Berlin. Fought for later in the 1970s, against demolition plans and partly occupied, it later served as an artist's house. After they too were confronted with occupiers from the left-wing scene, they moved out and founded a new artist's house with the help of the patron Berggrün in Kottbusser Straße. The rest of the building is now used for a music school. The historic pharmacy of Theodor Fontaine, the later well-known author about the Mark Brandenburg (Berlin area) can also be visited free of charge.
31
Engelbecken
It's worth a short stop here. The wall was right here, almost within reach for the Kreuzbergers above the sidewalk. Behind the death strip, with raked sand. Then another wall, then East Berlin. Only about 50 m away from the west, and yet inaccessible. You can hardly imagine today, where a park has now been created again. Incidentally, in an original canal bed, the Luisenstadt Canal. Here he made a bend towards the Spree, which is why the water flowed poorly and the barges (with bricks and beams for the construction of the city) had to be towed. That means horses pulled the boats and they were brought to the Engelhöfe to rest. There they resided on several floors, which is why these huge elevators are still outside today. Today various media service providers have settled in the courtyards.
32
Checkpoint Charlie
That was the Allied checkpoint. Charly (C) because, according to the American alphabet, the other two were in Helmstedt (A for Alpha) and Drei-Linden (B for Bravo). And as an Allied control force, you were allowed to drive through here without being monitored by the Soviet occupying power or their East German henchmen. When they wanted to do it differently in October 1961, shortly after the Wall was built, a major threat arose: 8 tanks hit both sides, a fingerprint away from World War III. Which is why these events affected the whole world. So it's not surprising that travelers from all over the world look around here - and don't see much anymore. A replica sentry box from the 50s, the original from the 80s are in the Allied Museum. A temporary museum of the Cold War, on a still-wasteland. And the privately run Wall Museum, with a collection of curiosities related to escape attempts.
Duration: 5 minutes
33
Here is one last, short but original remnant of the wall, right in the city center. Wallpeckers did the rest here, which is why the "anti-fascist protective wall" is very perforated here and doesn't look very threatening. The eastern rulers felt so safe here that they did without the usual death strip. After all, there were only convinced party soldiers in the neighboring house of the ministries (today the Ministry of Finance) and the planning office (today the House of Representatives). one thought. And then there was a spectacular attempt to escape by cable car from the former Luftwaffe building (built for Hermann Göring in the 1930s) over to the west. They managed to escape with the wife and baby, watched by the Stasi, who did not intervene. In the mistaken belief that it could only be a Soviet exercise. A brief stop will allow you to experience the Wall up close and get a glimpse of the Topography of Terror.
Duration: 5 minutes
34
Topography of Terror
Located south of the remains of the wall, there is now an excavation site with an information hall. In the 80s there were slopes and undergrowth here, and Suspender Harry (called himself that), a West Berlin unique, allowed Berliners to drive through the wilderness without a driver's license. Until a lecturer and her student started digging up Nazi history in Berlin. They found remnants of the cellars in which the Nazi security organs (SS, Gestapo, police, etc.) interrogated and mistreated unwelcome contemporaries (communists, social democrats, Sinti, Roma, gays ...) ... they planned their crimes against here humanity. Recorded and exhibited in the so-called Topography of Terror (open-air museum and information hall).
Duration: 5 minutes
35
Gropius Bau
It was once a handicraft museum, built by Martin Gropius, a great-uncle of the later Bauhaus architect Walter Gropius. Badly worn in the war, it lay in ruins on the Kreuzberg side of the Wall. Then restored, it is now used for major exhibitions, mostly financed by the Lotto Foundation, on interesting topics (from the perished Alexandria to David Bowie). The entrance was initially on the other side, because it would have provoked the eastern border guards so close to the wall. The battered sculptures at today's entrance still bear witness to the time of decay.
36
Tiergarten
Formerly an electoral hunting ground, and because there was also a fence around it so that the animals couldn't run away (and, conversely, the farmers from the surrounding villages couldn't hunt them), it soon had its name: the zoo. But Friedrich II, later called the Great, didn't like the hunt, banished the fence and for the first time allowed the Berliners to enter the private royal hunting grounds. In keeping with his time, he had part of it redesigned into a baroque garden. Later kings preferred the English landscape garden, and this is where the Prussian architect and gardener Peter Lenné excelled. He had the Schafgraben expanded into the Landwehr Canal, thus draining the swampy part of the zoo and creating landscapes, lakes and lines of sight. It has basically stayed that way until today, only World War II had a devastating effect. Soon almost no trees were standing upright, and potatoes were being grown in front of the Reichstag. But then the reforestation came with Allied help.
37
Here was the OHA, the high command of the army (office) of the Hilter Wehrmacht, after all, everyone had to swear their oath on this man. The beautiful building facing the canal was actually built as the Reichsmarineamt shortly before World War I. Later expanded and supplemented by many courtyards. In the first backyard, Claus Schenk Graf von Stauffenberg was shot dead, next to 3 faithful, after his attempt on Hitler on July 20, 1944 had failed. Today the branch of the Ministry of Defense (BMVe) is located here, the headquarters are still located on the Hardthöhe in Bonn. Does the minister stay there often? The building opposite, the so-called Shell building (after a petrol station) has in any case meanwhile also been rented to the BMVe, and so the Berlin - Bonn slide is developing to the disadvantage of the former German capital. The house has now been restored to its original state, a steel and concrete construction by a Bauhaus architect.
38
On this small street along the zoo there are many important messages - the largest of them in their ancestral buildings, at least in terms of their shell: Italy in a pink palazzo and Japan in a monumental building, crowned by the imperial sun in the gable. These were also the Axis Powers, with which the Hitler Reich was allied and which should therefore be located near the control center in Wilhelmstrasse and Vossstrasse. Behind and around it are the embassies of Austria, India (red Kathmandu stone), South Africa (sand-colored) and Turkey (easy to recognize by the barrier). Greece is just finishing its embassy again, and shortly before the Konrad-Adenauer-Stiftung (CDU) there is still Saudi Arabia with a traditional oriental grid pattern. In between a large building with a huge driveway, which is actually not a real embassy, but just a state representative: Baden-Württemberg, imposing next to Austria.
39
Landwehrkanal
In addition to the Spree, the Landwehr Canal offers good orientation in the city. In general, Berlin is very much built by and on the water, the groundwater is only 80 cm below us. But over the centuries everything was dammed, drained and put into canals. For this purpose, the Great Elector brought Dutch experts into the country, and Berlin is now criss-crossed by 200 km of waterways. One of these is the Landwehr Canal, conceived and planned by Peter Joseph Lenné, the well-known landscape architect. It had several functions: Abbreviation for the meandering Spree, cargo shipping through the new suburbs of Berlin, which brought the necessary bricks and logs with them, and also drainage of the swampy surrounding area, be it in today's Kreuzberg or in the Tiergarten. If you have the opportunity to take a boat tour, you will find that almost all of the sights can be viewed from the water. Like the Ministry of Defense here.
40
Here we see a large green band, which should not look green, but copper. But if you artificially "age-t", as happened here, for some it has the impression of GDR plastic. Behind them, in any case, in chic wooden buildings, individually and yet connected (also through a shared canteen, supplied by a Norwegian high-end restaurant in Schöneberg): the 5 Nordic embassies. 5? Yes, one likes to forget the little Iceland.
41
Aquarium Berlin
It is a pleasure to overlook our beautiful aquarium here with the sandstone-colored plates that depict all kinds of reptiles. But it is one of the largest of its kind, the collection includes far more animals than the Aquaree in the east of the city. Only this is very spectacular, you walk under the initially native aquatic animals until you end up in a South Sea aquarium, through which the hotel lift (it is located in the lobby of the Dom Aquaree Hotel) goes directly.
42
Zoo Berlin
This zoo is not only one of the oldest in Germany, it also has the largest population of animals and species (around 16,000 animals of 1,600 different species). The foundation goes back to King Friedrich Wilhelm IV, who could not do much with the animal population on the Pfaueninsel of his predecessors (from peacocks to bears to other rare animals). So he had the animals moved near Berlin and sacrificed part of his private hunting grounds, the zoo. The buildings were also erected in the manner and style of the respective countries of origin of the animals, which is still nice to look at despite the war damage. Of course, Berlin also has a second zoo, but that is the zoo around Friedrichsfelde Palace, due to the division of the city. Today both belong together. From the outside, the large elephant gate with the monkey enclosure behind and the lion gate at the Zoo station are particularly striking.
43
Breitscheidplatz
Not so many people can remember this name, it goes back to an SPD politician who was very committed to workers. Much better known is the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, which we will see from the other side again later. Many believe that the name refers to the memory of the war, but what is meant is Wilhelm I, to whom his grandson and his Hohenzollern family erected a memorial. Therefore, all the faces of the Holy Family and the disciples in the entrance of the preserved portal somewhat resemble the Prussian kings and emperors. Originally, the plan was to completely clear the war-torn place, including the remains of the church. There was resistance to this, so at least the tower and the west portal were preserved. The church tower and the actual church hall were built around the outside in a modern style based on designs by Egon Eiermann. Allegedly called lipstick and powder compact by the Berliners.
44
Theater des Westens
It looks a bit strange from the outside, a bit poured over everything in the confectioner's style and is also not that old: the theater of the west. So called because it was built in what was then the new west of Berlin (and only later, so to speak, happened to be in West Berlin). At the beginning of the 20th century it was trendy to move out of the much too densely built-up city center (called Mitte) with all its marches and parades to the green west, where there was still space for large villas with gardens. The theater, today used as a musical theater, is reminiscent of this splendor and even contains an imperial box inside.
45
Here we pan over from Kantstrasse (which in its longer course turns into an interesting Chinese quarter, goes back to the students from the imperial era at the Technical University) to the famous Kurfürstendamm, in Berlin lovingly and ironically to the Ku'damm abbreviated.
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Kurfurstendamm
Here we get a small impression of the western splendor boulevard. In reality it is much longer, almost 5 km to Halensee. Erected on the model of the Champs Élysées in Paris, which Bismarck had made a great impression on after the German victory over France (even the candelabras remind of it). Only today it is no longer adorned by magnificent villas, not even by entertainment bars, cafes and many cinemas, as in the times of George Grosz and Erich Kästner, but has mutated into a shopping mile with chic boutiques (further west, from Versace over Bulgari and Dolce Gabbana can be found here) and modern flagship stores like here from Apple and Tesla. As a result, the chic boulevard is now lonely and deserted at night.
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Here again the Memorial Church, this time from the other side. The new building is also worth a visit, not only does everything appear in a mysterious blue light through the many thousands of glass stones specially made in France. It's surprisingly quiet inside too, considering the noise of this very crowded place. This is due to the special construction of a double wall with 2 m of soundproofing air in between. Unfortunately, the concrete structure is very fragile because it is fragile and exposed to all traffic emissions. That is why one of the buildings is seldom without scaffolding. Immediately behind it the tower of the European Center, together with the low-rise building, it is the oldest shopping center in Berlin, recently 50 years old. Originally even with an ice rink in the middle, but that was later sacrificed to optimize space. Berlin is now nationwide mall capital: we already have more than 70 and more are in the pipeline.
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Kaufhaus Des Westens
After Breitscheidplatz we reach the Tauentzien, named after a general from the battle against Napoleon, like all other streets straight ahead. Perceived by many as a continuation or the beginning of the Ku'damm; From a whim of history, Ku’damm is actually missing 9 house numbers. Also flanked by many shops, but mostly those with affordable prices. Apart from the deluxe department store at the end of the street, the KaDeWe, with its 60,000 m² largest single department store in continental Europe. There is every conceivable luxury there, especially up on the gourmet floor, from sipping champagne to eating oysters, the finest types of chocolate and even more types of bread and cheese, everything your heart desires is offered there. Still denigrated by some as "Fressetage" ... Definitely visit!
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It was once the most beautiful place, at least in West Berlin. In view of the rather insignificant 1950s buildings there is not much left, but the subway station still stands out in the middle, crowned by a truly beautiful building. Several lines cross here, so that in the early 20th century it was decided to connect them with a common train station. Nevertheless, the Berlin subway can of course not stand up to comparison with the Moscow one, for example, it is really old (not quite as old as the Londoner, but roughly like the one from Paris). And coming from Nollendorfplatz, the former workers' railway disappears underground here. The formerly independent and very wealthy city of Charlottenburg did not want to do this to itself that a stinking train (at that time still) snorted past the beautiful villas.We will see in a moment how it back up towards Nollendorfplatz (and that was Schöneberg or Berlin) got.
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Particularly noticeable: how the subway emerges from the underground or disappears into it, depending on which side you are coming from. Erected in 1902, the decision was made for the cheaper above-ground construction method than digging into the boggy Berlin underground. Berlin always had financial worries, not the then still independent rich city of Charlottenburg. She banished the panting monster underground. People of all genders have always traveled between Bülowbogen in the east and Nollendorfplatz in the west, as they said at the time. Even in the emperor's time there were gay "bad boy balls" (from midnight to 6:00 am, just like in club culture today) and lesbian "hallways" where people danced. Across all layers, a novelty at the time. Until today there is between Nollendorfplatz / Motzstr. and Wittenbergplatz / Fuggerstr. the largest gay district in Europe.
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Kulturforum
Once built as a counterpart to the Museum Island, not as a contrast; so the planning in the 50s, when people still believed that the halves of the city would soon be reunified. Then, however, buildings such as the Philharmonie (with chamber music hall), New State Library and New National Gallery were built here, which were more than just an addition to the older buildings in the eastern half. In addition to other museums such as the arts and crafts museum and the one for musical instruments, the superbly designed and equipped picture gallery was built in the 1990s. Here you will find all the old masters from Tiziano to Caravaggio to Rembrandt. It is only difficult to find it behind the strangely crooked piazetta. That will now also be covered by a new building that will contain the modern art of the 20th century. Planned by top Swiss architects Herzog & De Meuron, the exterior is more reminiscent of a barn, and as always, the city is very divided about it.
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Sony Center
For many an architectural highlight to this day: the Sony Center on Potsdamer Platz. In addition to Daimler-Chrysler (then, now again Mercedes-Benz) the other large investor in the depressed place. The daring glass and steel construction comes from the German-American architect Helmut Jahn. The buildings are spanned by a sloping roof that seems to float and is reminiscent of Fujiyama in Japan. Only one thing had been overlooked during the planning: the listed wing of the old Hotel Esplanade. He had survived the terrorist bombing and parties were being held in his halls (breakfast room and smoking room with a painting of the emperor). In an elaborate process, the building was then moved 75 m eastwards, roofed over with 10 floors - and the ballroom turned outside. Today it can be rented again for festivities.
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We turn around here because continuing to Charlottenburg Palace would be too far (or, if desired, at the expense of other highlights). The beautifully restored Art Nouveau building has a special anecdote after World War II...
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Charlottenburg Palace
Famous castle of the Hohenzollern, which was so badly damaged during the war that it had to be demolished. Only the resistance of the citizens led to preservation and reconstruction. Inside with original furniture, the silver collection and the porcelain collection of the Prussian kings. The park on the Spree side was also reconstructed true to the original.
Duration: 60 minutes
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Memorial of the Berlin Wall
Nowhere is the Berlin Wall explained and documented as well as at this memorial, a little off the tourist routes. In the meantime, the memorial has been expanded and a watchtower adorns the piece of the original wall with death strip and hinterland wall. A museum and documentation center with films about the Wall and escape attempts (tunnel) complement the memorial
Duration: 15 minutes
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Tempelhof
The old Berlin central airport Tempelhof is a sight in itself: the so-called mother of all airports and with the largest building in the world - until the construction of the Pentagon. The front measures 1.3 km and can be seen from space. Constructed during the Nazi era but never fully completed, the building bears impressive testimony to that era. Today it offers the spectacular entrance to Berlin's largest park on the former runway. A green meadow with flocks of sheep and Kyte kites "above" Berlin.
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Bergmannstrasse
A very special and often forgotten neighborhood in old West Berlin, the "brave" Kreuzberg opposite the more well-known spontaneous district SO36. Idyllically located on the mountain slope to the Tempelhofer Flugfeld, the old and listed buildings from the imperial era bear witness to a bygone era. The picturesque Chamissoplatz is particularly worth seeing. And last but not least, the renovated market hall on Marheinekeplatz.
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Sowjetisches Ehrenmal Treptow
Slightly off the beaten tourist track, it is often overlooked. A gem of horticultural art, but also a reflection of Soviet dreams of becoming a great power after winning the "Great Valterland War" against Hitler's Germany. Around 8000 Soviet soldiers of the Red Army who fell in the battle for Berlin are buried here, mourned by a Russian war widow (statue) and a heroic statue of the Soviet soldier rescuing a liberated German child.
Duration: 20 minutes
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Treptower Park
Would you like a view of the Spree? Gladly here in Treptower Hafen. Around 30 excursion boats of the "Stern und Kreis" shipping company set off here for "steamer trips" on the Spree and the numerous canals. You are also welcome to take me on a Spree trip or even the 3-hour bridge trip. This is how you get to know Berlin from the water side, leisurely and with pleasure with a "Molle" or "Berliner Weisse" in your hand and a snack to strengthen your body.
Duration: 20 minutes
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Warschauer Strasse
Here you can immerse yourself in the true and unmistakable Friedrichshain. On the site of the former Reichsbahn repair shop (RAW) - trains and locomotives of the Deutsche Reichsbahn (GDR) were repaired here until 1990 - a large number of alternative companies have set up. From the bar to the culture house with morning dance events to the hard techno club, you will find just about everything in formerly decaying buildings. These have been lovingly restored and, above all, provided with a lot of graffiti. Everything is threatened by the change of gentrification, where start-up companies are gradually conquering the lucrative and (still) exciting terrain.
Duration: 15 minutes
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Immerse yourself in the authentic flair of a revived market hall. Liberated from the installations of the 70s of the last century, you can experience market stalls like they used to. However, with modern products, with ecological awareness and the charm of the historic market hall. A must especially in the evening with many specialty snacks in the middle of lively Kreuzberg
Duration: 30 minutes
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Kunstlerhaus Bethanien
Unfortunately, the Künstlerhaus is history in this historic location, in the brick building of the former Bethanien Deaconess Hospital in Kreuzberg 36. Beautifully situated on Mariannenplatz, it was actually supposed to be demolished in the 1970s. But among other things, the occupation with the participation of the punk rock band "Ton, Scherben, Steine" prevented this. There is now a music school, Theodor Fontane's historic pharmacy and a fabulous café in the inner courtyard.
Duration: 15 minutes
